How to, and How Not to, Siphon Manually

[RTR]

How to, and How Not to, Siphon Manually

Every fish keeper needs to know how to siphon. This is one of the basic techniques in aquarium maintenance. It is second nature to everybody in the hobby, right? Maybe, maybe not. Do you get aquarium water in your mouth? Have you ever pulled the delivery end of the siphon out of the bucket and onto your shoes, the rug, or the hardwood floor? Maybe we should talk for a few minutes. I have done all the above, but eventually I learned how not to do so, and I’m more than willing to share what works for me. Think about it and see if anything here will work for you.

First, you need a siphon. These are commercially available at moderate cost. To have a siphon you really only absolutely require a length of flexible tubing just firm enough not to collapse when full of water and looped over the tank rim. About ½ inch ID (internal diameter) seems to be standard. Clear is better for me because I like to see what is going through and how fast it is moving. But we want a little more than that. We want a gravel vacuum on the business (in-tank, intake) end of the siphon. A gravel vacuum is a section of wider (commonly two inches in diameter) rigid tubing with an adapter down to fit the ½ inch flexible tubing at the end. The length of the flexible tubing is not standardized, but for me should be at least eight feet. More on that later. The rigid tubing that is most often original equipment is about 12 inches. This is great for 10, 15, 20 long, 33XL, etc., all the ~12” high tanks. It can be used readily in taller tanks as well, but if you wish, longer gravel vacuums are available. I have the standard 12”, a 16” and what was originally a 24” gravel vacuum, now cut down to ~20”. At one point I had one of the 30” tall tanks – big mistake, it was unworkable unless you like wet armpits. I do not (and I do have long arms). That tank went away, the gravel vac was cut to 20” and is fine for the 24-25” tanks, but for the smaller of those (30XH, 65), I’m more likely to use the 16” length for easier manipulation. For the big tanks (18-24 inches front to back), the extra length will be useful (but it will be more use with a Python attached than a simple siphon).

Next you need a bucket, or if you can afford it (both money and storage space) 2-3 buckets. I prefer Rubbermaid (Roughneck is the type I have if they still produce these). A pouring lip is needed, along with a sturdy bail (handle) – water is heavy. I like 3-5 gallon buckets, but the latter are hefty if anywhere near full. Internal volume calibration marks are good but not essential. These absolutely must be reserved solely for fish tank use. Mark them in large letters on the outside, and if your cohabitants are not trustworthy, hide them (there is no small trick to concealing a stack of buckets). Soap or detergent residues can be deadly.

You now have the basics. There may be other accessories that will make your life simpler, so I’ll post a simple list of these.
· Carpet protector strip: These are plastic mats, available from rolls, with relatively skid-resistant surfaces. They are intended to cover carpet along a walkway to be used by movers, workmen, etc. A length greater than your longest tank can be used during tank work (you are a workman here, right?) to protect rugs, carpets, and your relationship with your significant other.
· Beach towel: This is used to top the plastic strip (above) provided the resulting layers are still securely non-skid (test this before you start work, it matters). If not, spread the towel just beyond the strip, in the path toward the sink/toilet, to “walk off” any water on the soles of your shoes. I store the plastic strip loosely rolled inside a bucket, with the upper side rolled to the outside to avoid dangerous curls when opened for use.
· Folding or other utility chair: Have you ever been vacuuming away on the tank, trying to get that back corner, and run the bucket over? Or pulled the siphon out of the bucket without noticing? I’ve done both. Finally it got through to me that I cannot rely on myself to keep one eye on the bucket and hose delivery end, while the other is concentrating on the job inside the tank. I am neither a horse nor a chameleon. My eyes and brain don’t work that way. I can slow down the siphon’s rate of flow by placing the bucket on a folding chair. The rate of flow is directly related to the height differential between the tank water level and that in the bucket. Raise the bucket, slow the flow. It still provides sufficient vacuum for most cleaning purposes. It is especially useful when you want to control the suction for light surface skimming in planted tanks. I cheat even further – I place a hand or finger over the rim of the bucket, so I will feel the water when it gets to my fingertip. Bingo, time to stop vacuuming and change buckets.
· Towel: Keep a plain utility towel around your neck, over your shoulder, wherever it is immediately at hand. Obvious, I hope.

Okay, I’ve got siphon, towels, plastic strips, buckets and I’m ready to go. Turn off all submerse power to the tank. I use two plug strips per tank (both feeding from a ground fault circuit interrupter, GFCI, of course). One has the lights and their timers on it, while the other has the things I do not want live while I’m working. While my hands are still dry, I flip the toggle on the strip. I have instant safety plus no sprays from exposed pumps or blown out heaters. The lights I leave on for working.

To start the siphon, position the receiver bucket where it will be ready, and feed the gravel vacuum end of the siphon into the tank, allowing the air to escape through the flexible tubing. Continue slowly feeding at least about four feet of the flexible tubing into the tank - or the whole tube if you are just developing the technique. The slow feed allows the tubing to fill with tank water. Using you thumb to seal the delivery end of the siphon, lift this from the tank and to the bottom of the bucket. [If the delivery end of the siphon does not meet the bottom of the bucket and curl at least a foot or more there, your tube is too short. Take the rigid tube only (for a tight matching fit) to the local hardware store and get a longer tube. Do not get a connector or extension. Internal connectors can catch debris, plant leaves, etc. and lead to clogs.] Release the delivery end of the siphon from your thumb and water should now flow freely into the bucket. You are siphoning, and you did not ingest any tank water.

When it is time to change buckets, if you have multiples, stop the flow with your thumb, then move the end to the next bucket. If you have but one bucket, stop the flow with your thumb again, then move the delivery end back into the tank. Make certain it will not flop out while you are away emptying the bucket. I usually lower the cover glass on it to secure the hose while I’m away, or just feed the whole tube back into the tank.

When you have done as much vacuuming, removed as much water as you planned, just lift the intake end out of the tank and allow it to drain into the bucket. Pull the coil in the bucket straight up out of the water, allowing it to drain as well. This avoids slopping that last bit in the hose onto the furniture or the frowning spouse.

If you absolutely insist upon sucking on the hose to start it, the trick is to have a long hose (as suggested above). The gravel vacuum should be in the tank as before, at or near the bottom. The flexible hose is over the tank rim, drops to the floor, and is long enough for this scenario to reach from floor back up to the water level of the tank and at least a foot above. Now you may, if you must, suck quickly and briefly on the delivery end of the siphon. The water from the tank will be pulled over the rim of the tank and drop toward the floor. Once it is past the water level of the tank the siphon is technically established, but it is conservative to wait for it to pass the middle to the bottom of the tank before you remove your mouth from the tube (this is fast). Once the water hits the floor level, cap the delivery end with you thumb. If you wish you can then lessen the pressure on your thumb and bleed out the air in the tube up to the water level of the tank. If you wait too long to cap the delivery end when establishing the siphon, the momentum of the moving water can carry it past the end of the tubing – i.e., you have a brief but messy fountain with no catch basin. By stopping it and then bleeding out the rest of the air, you have killed the momentum and most of the water spill or spray hazard. But the passive fill technique detailed before is much, much better.

[mesutt]

I thought I would add my DIY to your post since it is related. I use a clamp on my hose to keep it in the bucket.

Here is how I did it: Standard clamp you can buy at hardware store... about 3-4" and 2 zip ties and you have it... I hope this is useful to others. Works great for me.







I also use this to protect the snails & fry fishes I want to keep and return them to the tank. I use this when vac in the tiny baby tanks. The clamp on the hose is so practical.

[Sylvia]

How do you guys put water back into the tank? I have a 3.5 gallon bucket that I haul across the kitchen to the sink, and back again. Quite a hassle, but it's the only way I can do it.

[mesutt]

Originally Posted by neptune

How do you guys put water back into the tank? I have a 3.5 gallon bucket that I haul across the kitchen to the sink, and back again. Quite a hassle, but it's the only way I can do it.

PYTHON, PYTHON, PYTHON.... best friend for Aquarium lovers!!!!

Here is one on ebay... grab it... they go for up to $40...

eBay: PYTHON NO SPILL CLEAN & FILL AQUARIUM GRAVEL VACUUM 50' (item 180114953150 end time May-12-07 16:14:49 PDT)

[joephys]

a simple hose hooked upto the sink

[RTR]

Do I have to confess that I have been a happy Python user for decades? That the only times that I siphon or refill manually is on QT (although I do have a spare Python*) or when I kept the tank at the assisted living facility (the Python was a hazard there)? But I do keep all the manual equipment handy - including the folding chair - I am definitely a belt & suspenders type.

I like the clamp - that is a handy addition.

"Manual" refills are by bucket (hey, I have been doing this for longer than most of you have been alive, I really am not bad at pours) or pumped from reservoirs.

*Yes, I do also have a spare Python. Have I mentioned being compulsive?

[jimlas]

I like the clamp, good idea
Wendy

[Sylvia]

Originally Posted by joephys

a simple hose hooked upto the sink

What about the chlorine? Or do you have a bucket near the tank, turn on the hose, and then put chlorine in the bucket?

[RTR]

You can add dechlorinator/dechloraminator to the tank prior to adding the water - it is fast-acting.

[PufferMom]

*sigh* I so wish we could get a python but we have a handheld type kitchen faucet that it won't hook up to and hubby refuses to discuss changing it. Guess I can't complain too much though as he's the one that does the majority of lugging the 5 gallon bucket around.

[RTR]

I never got to give way to MTS fully until the Python came along, and kept no big tanks (>55 gal.). But when we built this house 20 years ago I did incorporate a small fish room with its own laundry tub and tap setup. Luxury living... I can usually keep myself down to about 2 dozen tanks, but am happiest at about 12-18. Unfortunately, I am greedy and always have to set up more tanks to try this or that, so I cannot hold the low numbers for long.

My wife endures the tanks and accepts them so long as those in the living areas are socially acceptable (clean front glasses are key).

[Sylvia]

Originally Posted by RTR

You can add dechlorinator/dechloraminator to the tank prior to adding the water - it is fast-acting.

That's great! I have never thought of that before! Thank you!

[joephys]

Well, I was beat to it, but thats exactly what I do neptune.

[Sylvia]

Thank you also, Joephys

[Lucky_13]

just make sure you use enough dechlor to treat the entire volume of the tank, not just the amount your changing.

[Sylvia]

What?

[OrionGirl]

If you're changing 3 gallons out of a 10 gallon tank, you add enough dechlor to treat 10 gallons, not 3.

[Sylvia]

Sorry, don't understand. If you treat 3 gallons, that gets rid of the chlorine, right? Why would you need to treat water that's already rid of chlorine?

[OrionGirl]

You have to treat those 3 gallons, and they're spread out within 10 gallons. So, you really have to treat the entire volume of water, not just the amount that initially was mixed with the chlorine (ie, the new stuff). Imagine you have 10 fire flies in a one gallon jar. If you want to catch them, you can net just that one gallon, right? Now, release those fireflies in a 10 gallon jar--they won't stay in that original one gallon space, so to catch them, you have to run your net through the full 10 gallons.

[PufferMom]

If you're treating the water before you add it to the tank, you treat for just that amount. If you are treating the tank and then adding water, you treat for the volume of the entire tank. Which is one of the reasons why I love Prime.